“For real hardcore foodies, Mirza Köfte shop in Bayrampasa—known as Little Bosnia—is a must. Owner Mirza is in his late 60s and used to be the executive chef for the Yugoslav Parliament under Tito. This is the simplest, most down-to-earth place with the most amazing Bosnian artisan sausages and meatballs. Try their amazing home-made puffy bread that you dip into fermented clotted cream (kaymak) with green peppers. It is to die for.
In the same street where I opened my grill outside the Grand Bazaar, is a tiny döner shop called Shahin which has been there since 1959. He’s my direct competitor and he only does one thing: döner with ayran or coke, but his place is extremely popular with bazaar traders, and I really like his döner. At lunchtime there are queues so get there early.
Kadı Nimet Balıkcılık is my favorite place to eat fish in this town. In the heart of Kadıköy’s food market (Asian side), it’s a fish shop with a restaurant attached. Simple, fun and delicious fish and mezze, to enjoy with a cold beer or raki.
Sehit Kamil Balkan Cad.,
T: (212) 497 0233
T: (212) 252 83 02
Serasker Cad., Tarihi Balikcilar Carsisi
T: (216) 348 7386
Kılıçcılar Sokak, Nurosmaniye,
Kapalı Çarsı (near Gate 1 of the Grand Bazaar).